Summary:
[[Image:SaltwaterFish.jpg|630px|thumb|left|Keep your deep-sea (or freshwater) friends happy! Photo by Dawn/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/naturesdawn/1270216532/ flickr]/CC]]
So you want to set up a fish tank that?s more than a bowl with a goldfish in it? You can?t just pour a bunch of water in a tank and throw in some fish. A safe aquatic space for all water-based animals requires a chemically balanced environment, a little know-how, and some patience. In this article, we'll go over what it takes to set up and maintain a healthy habitat for your finned friends.
''This how-to was written by [http://www.erinbiba.com Erin Biba], who is a correspondent for WIRED Magazine and a freelance writer covering science and its intersection with technology, engineering, and popular culture.''
==Location, Location, Location==
Before getting started, be sure to carefully select the location of your tank. You?ll want to keep it away from a window and any direct sunlight. If the tank gets any sun it will grow algae, which will cause all sorts of problems, as algae throws off the chemical balance inside the tank and can poison your fish. You?ll also want your tank to be near an outlet or reachable by an extension cord because it will have several different gadgets that will need to be plugged in.
Another important thing to remember is that once your tank is full, it will be extremely heavy. That means once it?s in place, that?s it ? you won?t be moving it around the room on a whim unless you go through the trouble of emptying it out and setting it all up again (yet another thing that can throw of the chemical balance inside).
==Where You Shop Is Important==
Once you pick out your tank location, find a locally-run, small, fish-only store to do your shopping. Big chain pet stores, while cheaper, tend to have unhealthy fish and uninformed employees. Ideally, you want to find a place that has the same person behind the counter every time you come in. The fish shop owner can be an invaluable resource for advice and tips about which fish will live well together in your tank, how many your tank can safely hold, and how to solve any problems which might pop up. They also tend to have a much wider selection of interesting and unusual species and will be honest with you about whether or not you have the chops to care for them. Another bonus: if you ever move to another city and can?t take your fish with you, small fish stores are more likely to take them off your hands and find them a new home.
==Tank Properties==
A good general rule to follow is that every one gallon will buy you one inch of fish. The best way to tell when you?ve filled your tank to capacity is to buy just a few fish at a time and watch how they interact. Every fish will want its own little area to hide and feel safe. If you don?t have enough spaces left for everyone to play nicely, then you don?t have any room for more fish. Also keep in mind that every new fish introduced can impact the chemical balance inside. The smaller the tank, the more impact each fish will have.
When buying a tank you?ll want one that comes with a lid and a light. This will keep out any sediment floating around in the air and illuminate the colors of all the fish and plants inside. You?ll also want to make sure you have a sturdy surface to hold your tank. The safest and easiest (though more expensive) choice is to buy a tank that comes with its own specially-made stand. Many of these also have cabinets built into the stand where you can stash your filter and accessories out of sight.
==What Kind of Water?==
The type of water you choose will determine what kinds of fish you can ultimately buy.
===Freshwater===
[[Image:FreshwaterFish.jpg|630px|thumb|left|Photo by Leon Rice-Whetton/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/leonrw/4631912050/ flickr]/CC]]
This is by far the best choice for people who want simplicity. Freshwater requires the least amount of work and is ideal for beginners. The fish you get will be less colorful, but generally hardier. If you like catfish (that suck the algae off the glass) or tetras (small fish that swim in schools and are sometimes dyed neon colors) this is a good way to go. When setting up a freshwater tank you?ll want to buy small rocks for the bottom of your tank. Freshwater tanks are also easier to clean because if you knock the rocks on the bottom out of place they won?t get sucked into filter and clog it like sand does.
Freshwater tanks have the largest variety of products made for them. When you?re picking food, chemicals, or devices for your tank be sure to go for those marked '''?TROPICAL?''' ? counterintuitively, that?s the industry term for freshwater tank.
===Saltwater===
[[Image:Clownfish.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Photo by Sergiu Bacioiu/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergiu_bacioiu/4507222807/ flickr]/CC]]
Stage two in fish ownership is the saltwater tank. Once you have mastered the art of freshwater fish tanks you can graduate to saltwater. In order to set up this type of tank you?ll need to change your methods a bit. Saltwater requires a sandy bottom (no more rocks) as many types of fish that live inside will like to burrow small habitats under rocks (clownfish, i.e. Nemo, are notorious for this). Saltwater fish will be much more colorful than freshwater, but also much more sensitive to small chemical and temperature changes within your tank. They can also be much more expensive (anywhere from $20 - Hundreds depending on the fish).
You?ll also need to mix saltwater (though some fish-centric stores will do this for you). Mixing your own is very easy to do and there are lots of products on the market to help you out. [http://www.instantocean.com/ Instant Ocean] has the best range of products. It?s important to be sure your salt mix isn?t too high or too low. In order to know if you?ve added enough salt to your water you?ll need a Hydrometer ? a device you can dunk it in the water and watch the dial to see if your water is within ideal range. Instant Ocean makes [http://www.instantocean.com/Product-Catalog/Accessories/Instant-Ocean-R-Hydrometer.aspx one of these] too.
It?s important to mix and measure your saltwater before putting it into your tank ? especially if you already have fish inside. You can easily add more salt, but diluting over-salted water is tough. And you don?t want to shock your fish with dramatic changes in the tank.
There are fewer products dedicated to saltwater tanks and when shopping for your saltwater tank you should look for products marked '''?MARINE.?'''
===Advanced Water===
Once you?ve mastered the art of freshwater and saltwater you can move on to more advanced tanks like Brackish water (slightly salty water with a muddy/sandy base and a generally higher temperature than other tanks) or a Reef tank, which takes a saltwater aquarium and (with the benefit of a high-powered special light bulb, 150 watts minimum) lets you grow anemones.
==Gadgets, Gizmos and Accessories==
Other then the tank and the fish there are really only four other important things you?ll need to buy: a heater, a filter, a water test kit, and water conditioning solution.
===Heater===
There are tons of options for heating your tank, but the best (and cheapest option) is to go with a heater that has only one temperature and doesn?t have to be adjusted. Adjustable heaters are fancier, but generally you?ll set them once and then not adjust them again, as keeping your tank at one consistent temperature is one of the most important things you can do. Quick changes in internal temperature can kill your fish and consistency is more important than what the temperature actually is (generally tanks should be somewhere between 75F and 85F). A heater that takes care of maintaining a consistent temperature for you takes the fiddling out of the equation. It?s also good to get a thermometer, just to make sure your heater is functioning properly and to indicate if something malfunctions.
===Filter===
[[Image:FLUVALFilters.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Photo from [http://www.fluvalblog.com/ The FLUVAL Blog]]]
There are lots of different types of filters but all you really need to know is that the best filters come from [http://www.fluvalblog.com/ FLUVAL]. They?re a little pricier, and a little bit more difficult to set up, but they are also extremely powerful and will keep your tank very clean. FLUVALs are external filters, meaning they need to be kept below your fish tank and require some tubing to move the water in and out. Internal box-filters that sit inside your tank are decent for small tanks, however they need to be cleaned more often and are not nearly as powerful.
<br clear="all" />
===Water Test Kit===
The water in your tank will go through something called the Nitrogen Cycle. You don?t really need to know how this works to keep your tank healthy. All you need to know is whether or not the chemical balance of your water is within safe levels. There are several different methods for testing your water but the easiest by far is to use all-in-one test strips. You dip a single strip of test pads into your tank and they?ll each change color indicating the different levels of chemicals inside. The most important levels to keep straight are Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia. Simply compare the strip to the included color chart to find out how your tank is doing. API makes a simple [http://www.apifishcare.com/products/product.aspx?productid=212 5-in-one strip test].
===Water Conditioner===
[[Image:WaterConditioner.jpg|200px|thumb|lright|Photo from [http://cms.marsfishcare.com/ Mars Fish Care]]]
Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals that can be harmful to your fish and throw off the balance of your tank. This is taken care of very easily by adding a water conditioner to any new water you add. API makes an excellent product called [http://www.apifishcare.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=43 Stress Coat], which not only removes chlorine and neutralizes hard water but helps your fish maintain their healthy, slimy outer layer and is essential to use after adding new fish to your tank.
<br clear="all" />
===Helpful Extras That Aren't Mandatory===
'''Algae Scraper''' - It?s very likely that your tank will develop algae at some point in its life. You can get wipes that will help you reach corners and tricky spots. But one of the best algae-cleaners is a magnet-based scrubber that you can use without putting your hand in the tank. [http://www.magfloat.net/ Mag-Float] makes some good models.
'''Siphon''' - In order to keep your tank clean you?ll need to change the water regularly (about � of the tank every week, � the tank if you have an algae problem). This can be done using buckets and pitchers, but it?s extremely annoying. Getting a siphon makes removing the water much easier. Some also come with gravel cleaners for freshwater tanks that help suck out debris that collects in between rocks (this isn?t a problem with sandy bottoms).
==Getting Your Tank Up and Running==
Once you?ve bought and installed all your gadgets and gizmos, treated your water, and interior-designed your tank with plants and rocks, you?re ready to add your fish! The water in your tank needs to sit for a few days to come up to optimum temperature and let everything settle in. At this point you can introduce your fish to their new home and start ?cycling? your tank. Start with just two hardy fish. They will introduce the necessary bacteria to get the chemical cycle going and create a healthy environment.
For the next week or two, test your water regularly. You?ll see the chemical composition of your water change. First, the ammonia will rise then drop to near zero. Next, the nitrates and nitrites will rise, peak, and then drop. At this point your tank has cycled fully and is ready for regular water changes and more fish.
Always be sure to test your water before adding new fish and never add more then one or two fish at a time. After you?ve cycled your tank for the first time, your ammonia levels should never rise again and all you?ll need to worry about is maintaining low nitrate and nitrite numbers. If they ever get out of hand it?s generally an indication that your tank isn?t clean. This can come from over-feeding (uneaten food falls to the bottom and decays) and can be indicated by algae growth (algae feeds on nitrates and its presence makes the green stuff propagate like crazy). There?s no need to spend money on nitrate-fighting chemicals. The best way to get rid of high levels is to clean out your filter and increase your water changing to a daily practice until you?ve removed excess debris and your nitrate and nitrite levels return to normal.
[[Category:Lifestyle]]
[[Category:DIY]]
So you want to set up a fish tank that?s more than a bowl with a goldfish in it? You can?t just pour a bunch of water in a tank and throw in some fish. A safe aquatic space for all water-based animals requires a chemically balanced environment, a little know-how, and some patience. In this article, we'll go over what it takes to set up and maintain a healthy habitat for your finned friends.
''This how-to was written by [http://www.erinbiba.com Erin Biba], who is a correspondent for WIRED Magazine and a freelance writer covering science and its intersection with technology, engineering, and popular culture.''
==Location, Location, Location==
Before getting started, be sure to carefully select the location of your tank. You?ll want to keep it away from a window and any direct sunlight. If the tank gets any sun it will grow algae, which will cause all sorts of problems, as algae throws off the chemical balance inside the tank and can poison your fish. You?ll also want your tank to be near an outlet or reachable by an extension cord because it will have several different gadgets that will need to be plugged in.
Another important thing to remember is that once your tank is full, it will be extremely heavy. That means once it?s in place, that?s it ? you won?t be moving it around the room on a whim unless you go through the trouble of emptying it out and setting it all up again (yet another thing that can throw of the chemical balance inside).
==Where You Shop Is Important==
Once you pick out your tank location, find a locally-run, small, fish-only store to do your shopping. Big chain pet stores, while cheaper, tend to have unhealthy fish and uninformed employees. Ideally, you want to find a place that has the same person behind the counter every time you come in. The fish shop owner can be an invaluable resource for advice and tips about which fish will live well together in your tank, how many your tank can safely hold, and how to solve any problems which might pop up. They also tend to have a much wider selection of interesting and unusual species and will be honest with you about whether or not you have the chops to care for them. Another bonus: if you ever move to another city and can?t take your fish with you, small fish stores are more likely to take them off your hands and find them a new home.
==Tank Properties==
A good general rule to follow is that every one gallon will buy you one inch of fish. The best way to tell when you?ve filled your tank to capacity is to buy just a few fish at a time and watch how they interact. Every fish will want its own little area to hide and feel safe. If you don?t have enough spaces left for everyone to play nicely, then you don?t have any room for more fish. Also keep in mind that every new fish introduced can impact the chemical balance inside. The smaller the tank, the more impact each fish will have.
When buying a tank you?ll want one that comes with a lid and a light. This will keep out any sediment floating around in the air and illuminate the colors of all the fish and plants inside. You?ll also want to make sure you have a sturdy surface to hold your tank. The safest and easiest (though more expensive) choice is to buy a tank that comes with its own specially-made stand. Many of these also have cabinets built into the stand where you can stash your filter and accessories out of sight.
==What Kind of Water?==
The type of water you choose will determine what kinds of fish you can ultimately buy.
===Freshwater===
[[Image:FreshwaterFish.jpg|630px|thumb|left|Photo by Leon Rice-Whetton/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/leonrw/4631912050/ flickr]/CC]]
This is by far the best choice for people who want simplicity. Freshwater requires the least amount of work and is ideal for beginners. The fish you get will be less colorful, but generally hardier. If you like catfish (that suck the algae off the glass) or tetras (small fish that swim in schools and are sometimes dyed neon colors) this is a good way to go. When setting up a freshwater tank you?ll want to buy small rocks for the bottom of your tank. Freshwater tanks are also easier to clean because if you knock the rocks on the bottom out of place they won?t get sucked into filter and clog it like sand does.
Freshwater tanks have the largest variety of products made for them. When you?re picking food, chemicals, or devices for your tank be sure to go for those marked '''?TROPICAL?''' ? counterintuitively, that?s the industry term for freshwater tank.
===Saltwater===
[[Image:Clownfish.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Photo by Sergiu Bacioiu/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergiu_bacioiu/4507222807/ flickr]/CC]]
Stage two in fish ownership is the saltwater tank. Once you have mastered the art of freshwater fish tanks you can graduate to saltwater. In order to set up this type of tank you?ll need to change your methods a bit. Saltwater requires a sandy bottom (no more rocks) as many types of fish that live inside will like to burrow small habitats under rocks (clownfish, i.e. Nemo, are notorious for this). Saltwater fish will be much more colorful than freshwater, but also much more sensitive to small chemical and temperature changes within your tank. They can also be much more expensive (anywhere from $20 - Hundreds depending on the fish).
You?ll also need to mix saltwater (though some fish-centric stores will do this for you). Mixing your own is very easy to do and there are lots of products on the market to help you out. [http://www.instantocean.com/ Instant Ocean] has the best range of products. It?s important to be sure your salt mix isn?t too high or too low. In order to know if you?ve added enough salt to your water you?ll need a Hydrometer ? a device you can dunk it in the water and watch the dial to see if your water is within ideal range. Instant Ocean makes [http://www.instantocean.com/Product-Catalog/Accessories/Instant-Ocean-R-Hydrometer.aspx one of these] too.
It?s important to mix and measure your saltwater before putting it into your tank ? especially if you already have fish inside. You can easily add more salt, but diluting over-salted water is tough. And you don?t want to shock your fish with dramatic changes in the tank.
There are fewer products dedicated to saltwater tanks and when shopping for your saltwater tank you should look for products marked '''?MARINE.?'''
===Advanced Water===
Once you?ve mastered the art of freshwater and saltwater you can move on to more advanced tanks like Brackish water (slightly salty water with a muddy/sandy base and a generally higher temperature than other tanks) or a Reef tank, which takes a saltwater aquarium and (with the benefit of a high-powered special light bulb, 150 watts minimum) lets you grow anemones.
==Gadgets, Gizmos and Accessories==
Other then the tank and the fish there are really only four other important things you?ll need to buy: a heater, a filter, a water test kit, and water conditioning solution.
===Heater===
There are tons of options for heating your tank, but the best (and cheapest option) is to go with a heater that has only one temperature and doesn?t have to be adjusted. Adjustable heaters are fancier, but generally you?ll set them once and then not adjust them again, as keeping your tank at one consistent temperature is one of the most important things you can do. Quick changes in internal temperature can kill your fish and consistency is more important than what the temperature actually is (generally tanks should be somewhere between 75F and 85F). A heater that takes care of maintaining a consistent temperature for you takes the fiddling out of the equation. It?s also good to get a thermometer, just to make sure your heater is functioning properly and to indicate if something malfunctions.
===Filter===
[[Image:FLUVALFilters.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Photo from [http://www.fluvalblog.com/ The FLUVAL Blog]]]
There are lots of different types of filters but all you really need to know is that the best filters come from [http://www.fluvalblog.com/ FLUVAL]. They?re a little pricier, and a little bit more difficult to set up, but they are also extremely powerful and will keep your tank very clean. FLUVALs are external filters, meaning they need to be kept below your fish tank and require some tubing to move the water in and out. Internal box-filters that sit inside your tank are decent for small tanks, however they need to be cleaned more often and are not nearly as powerful.
<br clear="all" />
===Water Test Kit===
The water in your tank will go through something called the Nitrogen Cycle. You don?t really need to know how this works to keep your tank healthy. All you need to know is whether or not the chemical balance of your water is within safe levels. There are several different methods for testing your water but the easiest by far is to use all-in-one test strips. You dip a single strip of test pads into your tank and they?ll each change color indicating the different levels of chemicals inside. The most important levels to keep straight are Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia. Simply compare the strip to the included color chart to find out how your tank is doing. API makes a simple [http://www.apifishcare.com/products/product.aspx?productid=212 5-in-one strip test].
===Water Conditioner===
[[Image:WaterConditioner.jpg|200px|thumb|lright|Photo from [http://cms.marsfishcare.com/ Mars Fish Care]]]
Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals that can be harmful to your fish and throw off the balance of your tank. This is taken care of very easily by adding a water conditioner to any new water you add. API makes an excellent product called [http://www.apifishcare.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=43 Stress Coat], which not only removes chlorine and neutralizes hard water but helps your fish maintain their healthy, slimy outer layer and is essential to use after adding new fish to your tank.
<br clear="all" />
===Helpful Extras That Aren't Mandatory===
'''Algae Scraper''' - It?s very likely that your tank will develop algae at some point in its life. You can get wipes that will help you reach corners and tricky spots. But one of the best algae-cleaners is a magnet-based scrubber that you can use without putting your hand in the tank. [http://www.magfloat.net/ Mag-Float] makes some good models.
'''Siphon''' - In order to keep your tank clean you?ll need to change the water regularly (about � of the tank every week, � the tank if you have an algae problem). This can be done using buckets and pitchers, but it?s extremely annoying. Getting a siphon makes removing the water much easier. Some also come with gravel cleaners for freshwater tanks that help suck out debris that collects in between rocks (this isn?t a problem with sandy bottoms).
==Getting Your Tank Up and Running==
Once you?ve bought and installed all your gadgets and gizmos, treated your water, and interior-designed your tank with plants and rocks, you?re ready to add your fish! The water in your tank needs to sit for a few days to come up to optimum temperature and let everything settle in. At this point you can introduce your fish to their new home and start ?cycling? your tank. Start with just two hardy fish. They will introduce the necessary bacteria to get the chemical cycle going and create a healthy environment.
For the next week or two, test your water regularly. You?ll see the chemical composition of your water change. First, the ammonia will rise then drop to near zero. Next, the nitrates and nitrites will rise, peak, and then drop. At this point your tank has cycled fully and is ready for regular water changes and more fish.
Always be sure to test your water before adding new fish and never add more then one or two fish at a time. After you?ve cycled your tank for the first time, your ammonia levels should never rise again and all you?ll need to worry about is maintaining low nitrate and nitrite numbers. If they ever get out of hand it?s generally an indication that your tank isn?t clean. This can come from over-feeding (uneaten food falls to the bottom and decays) and can be indicated by algae growth (algae feeds on nitrates and its presence makes the green stuff propagate like crazy). There?s no need to spend money on nitrate-fighting chemicals. The best way to get rid of high levels is to clean out your filter and increase your water changing to a daily practice until you?ve removed excess debris and your nitrate and nitrite levels return to normal.
[[Category:Lifestyle]]
[[Category:DIY]]
Source: http://feeds.wired.com/~r/howtowiki/~3/9UgnsXpTXrU/Set_Up_and_Maintain_an_Aquarium
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